Here's a list of Bitcoin-Only exchanges:

*Get Bitcoin - Bitcoin Only*
https://bitcoin-only.com/get-bitcoin

Is there a bitcoin-only CEX with similar UX regarding onboarding? Asking about CEX since I think DEX are less _new_ user-friendly.

Depends of where you live.

NA: Strike, SwanBitcoin, CashApp
EU: peachbitcoin (p2p trades but with a centralized trusted escrow and matcher), relai, 21bitcoin and I know there are some local ones specific to the Netherlands and Germany

Or asked differently: What would you recommend?

I know kraken is hailed by many bitcoiners as one of the most reliable exchanges due to good PR, proof of reserves (as if such was truly possible or meaningful), LN adoption, low withdrawal fees, seigniorage and few scandals.

The reality is that it's still a KYC custodial shitcoin casino and I don't see why people keep recommending it to newcomers when there are so many bitcoin-only businesses.

bitcoin

CEO of Crypto Exchange Kraken Steps Down | WSJ

cryptocoin

I know kraken is hailed by many bitcoiners as one of the most reliable exchanges due to good PR, proof of reserves (as if such was truly possible or meaningful), LN adoption, low withdrawal fees, seigniorage and few scandals.

The reality is that it's still a KYC custodial shitcoin casino and I don't see why people keep recommending it to newcomers when there are so many bitcoin-only businesses.